You will need a fine tooth saw, hammer, ruler, level, carpenter's combination square, 3/4" finishing nails and panel adhesive. A miter box is also needed if you plan to apply the pieces in a chevron pattern. In order to avoid splitting, it is a good idea to cut off the sharp tips of nails with pliers when installing thin wood pieces.
CONDITION & FINISH YOUR PLANKS:
In order to minimize the expansion and shrinkage of the planks, the following steps are necessary prior to installation: Open all packages and place the boards flat with spacers in between the planks to allow air to circulate around each board. Allow 48 hours for the boards to adjust to the humidity and temperature of the room in which they are being installed. Do not attempt to acclimate your boards in a damp unheated area which would not be representative of the true year round temperature of the room. Finish/seal the front, back and both edges of each plank prior to installation. Otherwise undesirable shrinkage or expansion at the joints may occur. Important: When installing direct to framing, apply a vapor barrier between the studs and the planking. In rooms with unusually high moisture conditions such as saunas, bathrooms or laundry rooms, acclimation and finish sealing must be applied. Expansion and shrinkage are inherent characteristics of all wood products due to changes in humidity within the room. The manufacturer cannot be held liable for any movement in the planks.
If your walls are in good condition you may glue and/or nail the product directly onto drywall, plywood or existing paneling. On uneven, cracked or very rough walls, 1x2, or 1x3 kiln dried furring strips should be used. For vertical installation, furring strips should be installed horizontally. Start at the top and apply furring either 16' or 24' on center. For diagonal and horizontal installations start in a corner and install furring vertically 16' on center.
Angle all nails for greater holding power. Hammer nail to within 1/8" of face, then finish with a nail set. If gluing, use a good quality panel adhesive and follow the manufacturer's Instructions. Tap boards into place with a hammer and a wood block to protect the planking. From time to time, check for plumb and, if necessary, slightly angle tongue to groove fitting to make it square. Do not butt up panels too tightly. Allow for normal expansion and shrinkage.
CHECK FOR PLUMB:
The first plank is the key to a successful and easy Installation. Using a level make sure the first plank Is absolutely straight. Where necessary, scribe and then plane the long edge to assure a plumb fit.
Leave ¼” space at the corner, top and bottom and begin at an Inside corner and work left to right If you are right handed and right to left If you are left handed. Keep the groove edge toward the starting corner and the tongue edges toward your work direction. Face nail the first plank even if you plan to glue the other boards. Nailing the planks every 16” will insure adhesive contact to the boards. Measure and fit the next boards carefully. The last board may have to be trimmed to fit into a corner. Angle trim the boards corner edge slightly with a block plane install with the wide portion of the board away from the wall.
Install the first board with the groove down. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the board is level. If wall is longer than 8', keep the board ends staggered. Leave 1/4" between the ceiling and the plank.
Start the planking at an inside floor corner location. Cut and fit a triangular shaped piece at a 45 degree angle to the corner keeping the groove edge toward the starting corner and the tongue edge toward the work direction. Nail the triangular piece in the corner. Proceed by marking, cutting and installing the remainder of the boards.
Install the same as vertical applications. However, the planking must be nailed and glued to a solid surface.